Two terms often create confusion among jewellery enthusiasts: 'fine' and 'high' jewellery. While both represent exceptional craftsmanship and quality there are some important differences. Understanding them can help you make more informed choices when selecting pieces that will become treasured heirlooms.
Fine jewellery encompasses pieces crafted from precious metals; mostly gold and platinum and adorned with fine gemstones including diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emerald and a whole wealth of fine 'semi-precious' gemstones such as aquamarines, garnets and tourmalines. The hallmark of fine jewellery lies not just in its materials but in the skill and artistry required to create each piece.
At its essence, fine jewellery represents accessible luxury. These are pieces designed to be worn, cherished, and passed down through generations. From engagement rings to statement necklaces, fine jewellery ranges from everyday wear to special occasion pieces. The focus remains on exceptional materials, superior craftsmanship, and timeless design.
What distinguishes fine bespoke jewellery, our specialism, is its emphasis on personal connection. Each piece tells a story—whether it's marking a milestone, celebrating an achievement, or simply expressing individual style. This is where bespoke jewellers truly excel, creating original pieces that are unique to the recipient and designed around them.
What constitutes fine jewellery is, in truth, quite a large category. There is a wide array of mass produced jewellery that would still be called 'fine', available in the high street and online. While the same materials are used, the quality of them is often variable or the level of workmanship and design significantly lower.
Many of the workshops in Hatton Garden are run by jewellers who started their apprenticeship nearby. After serving several years, looking to spread their wings, they flock to the West End where many of the high jewellers have their premises. Here, they spend years improving, working with the largest and rarest gemstones in town. After a while, wishing to start their own enterprise, they leave the environs of New Bond Street or Mayfair and return to roost in Hatton Garden. Here, they pick up bespoke commissions from designer jewellers. They bring the expertise, fine craftsmanship and exacting standards of the high jewellery brands back with them.
High jewellery, or haute joaillerie as our friends across the Channel would say, represents the pinnacle of jewellery as an art form. It is a world full of famous names. Names such as Cartier (subject of last month's blog), Boucheron, Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef and Arpels that have been around since the 19th century. There are others more recent, such as Glenn Spiro, Wallace Chan and Lawrence Graff. The value of these pieces primarily stems from featuring the world's rarest and most exceptional gemstones.
The gemstones used in high jewellery are often extraordinary— diamonds will tend to be in the higher quality brackets, generally (F colour, VS clarity and above) whilst coloured gemstones are often the paragons of their type. Pigeon's blood rubies, deep royal blue and cornflower blue sapphires, vivid turquoise paraiba tourmalines, rare mandarin garnets and deep green emeralds. The stones are often so rare either as individual examples or by virtue of being a large set of matching colour and quality, that they're considered collection pieces with values that can reach astronomical heights.
The value also comes from the quantity and level of craftsmanship involved. High jewellery pieces are typically one-of-a-kind creations that can take months or even years to complete. They may incorporate techniques that have been developed specifically for a single or small range of items. At the moment, the high jewellery world is experimenting with coloured ceramics and aluminium, pushing the boundaries of what is possible. The time needed to invest in developing these techniques and the level of design that they help to manifest means that the jewels command high prices. Hundreds or even thousands of hours of labour by the finest workshops may be involved in the making of them. By way of an example, Boucheron's latest collection, Impermanence uses an astounding variety of experimental materials such as ceramic, lacquer, glass and titanium. One piece has 800 diamonds hand-sewn into it.
Materials and Rarity: While both categories use precious materials, high jewellery demands only the rarest specimens. The flexibility of fine bespoke jewellery on the other hand allows for the quality of materials to be maximised within a given budget.
Craftsmanship Complexity: Fine jewellery showcases excellent craftsmanship and attention to detail. High jewellery pushes technical boundaries, often incorporating revolutionary setting techniques, intricate mechanisms, or artistic elements that require master-level expertise.
Price and Accessibility: Fine jewellery, while representing a significant investment, remains within reach for life's important moments. High jewellery pieces even at lower price points contain a premium within them for the brand name of the jeweller making them.
Purpose and Wearability: Fine jewellery is created to be worn and enjoyed regularly. High jewellery pieces are often reserved for the most exclusive occasions or may serve primarily as collectible art pieces.
This distinction highlights why building a relationship with a skilled fine jeweller is so valuable. Someone who understands your style, budget and aspirations can guide you towards pieces that offer the perfect balance of beauty, quality, and personal significance.
Working with an experienced jeweller means accessing expertise in gemstone selection, understanding which shapes and settings will best suit your lifestyle, and ensuring each piece is crafted to last for generations. The personal consultation process allows for customisation that makes each piece uniquely yours—something even the most prestigious high jewellery houses cannot replicate for every client.
Moreover, a dedicated jeweller provides ongoing relationship value: maintenance, repairs, redesigns as your taste evolves, and guidance for future purchases. They become custodians of your jewellery story, understanding the sentimental value behind each piece and helping preserve it for years to come.
Whether you're drawn to fine jewellery or dream of high jewellery, the most important element is finding pieces that resonate with you. The finest jewellers understand that true luxury isn't merely about the size of the stones or the complexity of the setting—it's about creating pieces that bring joy each time they're worn.
In Hatton Garden's historic jewellery quarter, this philosophy continues to thrive. Here, traditional craftsmanship meets contemporary design, and the focus remains on creating pieces that celebrate life's most precious moments. After all, the greatest jewellery isn't just worn—it's lived in, loved, and treasured across generations.
The distinction between fine and high jewellery may be important from a technical standpoint, but what matters most is finding the piece that speaks to your heart. That's where the true art of jewellery lies.
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