The diamond line bracelet became known as the tennis bracelet after American star Chris Evert took to wearing one on court. The most famous chapter of this story was the day that her diamonds flew off during play. She stopped the match to look for them. It's a great story. It also highlights the main quality that has made the Tennis bracelet one of the cornerstones of a jewellery box. Its wearability. If you can play professional tennis in one, then you can do most things!
A tennis bracelet consists of a row of diamonds in articulated settings that fasten around the wrist. An important evolution that has come about since that fabled day on the tennis court is that of the double safely catch, to back-up the main catch, making them now, thankfully, very secure. The best examples contain the round brilliant diamond and feature a tongue and box clasp with diamonds set into it, thus allowing for a complete and unbroken row of diamonds. It is possible to make line bracelets out of other shapes of diamond or indeed gemstone. There is something about the utter simplicity of the row of modern round brilliants, ideally just large enough to be seen as distinctly separate gems, rather than a glittering strip, that is the look.
One nice thing about a set of diamonds for a bracelet is that the finest quality of diamonds is not a prerequisite, as they won't tend to be looked at so closely. This allows for more carat weight for any given budget. Laboratory diamonds are a popular choice here as well and allow for a substantial aesthetic without a correspondingly hefty price tag. The other main option is a rubover setting such as this example. The rubover settings offer added protection for the diamonds and emphasise the distinctness of the diamonds, creating the 'row of droplets' aesthetic.
Diamond line bracelet in a rubover setting
A popular approach for a bespoke tennis bracelet is an arrangement consisting alternating diamonds with another coloured gemstone. Sapphires and rubies work the best as they are the hardest gems after diamond. There are however plenty of other gems that are suitable. Topaz, the birthstone for November, is next in the order of durability, followed by Tourmaline, Garnet and Zircon.
A layout of 3.5mm Swiss Blue Topaz and natural diamonds for a bracelet
Here are some shots of one we made last Christmas - each setting is carefully prepared and assembled by hand.
The pictured line bracelet contains over 8 carats of natural round brilliant diamonds.
The Fit
There is some variability in the fitting of diamond tennis bracelets. Some like a loose fit that drapes attractively over the top of the hand, others prefer it to sit more snuggly above the wrist bone (the protuberant dome of the ulna on the opposite side of the wrist from the thumb). The thing to be mindful of if choosing a more relaxed fit is the internal pressure that flexing the wrist can put on the bracelet - the wrist expands as it bends. With the bracelet safely higher up it is free of this stress. A good test for finding the ideal fit is being able to slide one finger between the wrist and the bracelet without too much pressure.