Birthstones and Gemstones

Amethyst

There is a simple but stunning Amethyst bracelet from 3000 BC in the Cairo Museum. The oldest gemstone in the English Crown Jewels is an Amethyst originally belonging to Edward the Confessor. Catherine the Great was so fond of Amethysts that she sent thousands of people to look for new sources of the stone. And Amethysts decorate the Pala D’Oro high altar in St Mark’s Basilica in Venice. In short, for thousands of years Amethysts were given the same status and value as Emeralds, Sapphires and Rubies. This was because they share with those gemstones certain important characteristics. They are of an exquisite colour – a deep, rich, subtle purple with hints of pink and violet; they are hard, making them suitable for jewellery; and they have a long, romantic history. The word Amethyst has two different meanings. In Greek it translates as ‘not drunken’ because it was generally believed that the stone could prevent you from becoming intoxicated. In both Arabic and Hebrew, on the other hand, it translates as the ‘dream stone’ because it was believed that it could help the wearer to dream. Either way, the earliest use of the stone appears to be amongst the Minoans, who polished and cut it and set it into gold jewellery. They also seem to have traded it with the Egyptians, who called it hemag, and considered it a symbol of intellect. In the Egyptian Book of the Dead a heart carved Amethyst is mentioned as the symbol of wisdom. It is to be found in most of the world’s greatest collections of historic jewellery, although often in much lower quantities than other precious coloured gemstones, owing to its rarity. There are many references to Amethysts in literature and poetry. John Keats used it, for example, to describe a particular colour: ‘Rose-bloom fell on her hands, together prest/And on her silver cross soft Amethyst.’ 

Aquamarine

The name ‘Aquamarine’ comes from the Latin words for ‘water’ and ‘sea’ and it describes perfectly the clear, translucent blue/cyan quality of this wonderful and much undervalued stone. What does legend say about Aquamarine? It is considered a lucky stone. Sailors would carry it to protect themselves against drowning. It was believed to aid digestion and Roman physicians employed it to treat overeating. Romans also set great store by its, how shall we put it, romantic powers. To quote: ‘When blessed and worn, it joins in love, and does great things.’ For this reason, it was considered an appropriate gift for a groom to give to his bride following the consummation of their marriage. For the Sumerians, Egyptians, and Hebrews, Aquamarine was the symbol of happiness and everlasting youth.

Chrysoberyl

Why don’t we see more pieces of jewellery with Chrysoberyl in them? The reason is partly historic for the stone was extremely popular in Victorian times and became associated with a certain sort of jewellery that for many years was considered ‘dated’ but is now prized for its period quality; and partly due to availability, for although technically not a precious gemstone, it is rare enough. Chrysoberyl has a high refractive index, just slightly lower than Ruby and Sapphire, so offers excellent brilliance. It has a vitreous lustre and very clean and transparent specimens can be found. It is always untreated.  First discovered (officially) in 1789, Chrysoberyl was described and named by the famous German geologist, Abraham Gottlob Werner. The gem is associated with discipline and self-control and is said to promote concentration and the ability to learn. Additionally, it is thought to help the wearer strive for excellence. It is extremely popular amongst Indian gem healers.

Citrine

While we were admiring our two Chrysoberyl specimens and thinking of yellow gemstones in general, we remembered that we had tucked away a pair of large, clean, brilliant Citrines and, after a bit of searching we found them! Natural Citrine is quite rare, a delicate pale yellow to gold in colour and should be transparent or ‘eye clean’. When cut and polished (it is a stone that really comes alive when faceted) it should display what we call in the trade a ‘vitreous lustre’. Citrine is believed to promote prosperity and abundance, especially in commerce. Indeed, it has actually earned the nickname ‘the merchant’s stone’, owing to the fact that in some countries many businesses keep it in their cash registers for good fortune. According to legend, it is able to dissipate negative energy and relieve depression. It is certainly possible to see how these specimens could drive away the blues for they are perfectly coloured, completely clear, beautifully cut and of a really decent, useable size.

Diamond

The first written references to the stone date from two and a half Millennium ago, but it was probably known long before then. Until 1725, when a second supply was discovered in Brazil, the only source was India. It was valued from the very beginning for its extraordinary brilliance and its exceptional hardness. Ancient Hindus used Diamonds in the eyes of devotional statues, and believed that a Diamond could protect its wearer from danger. Its name, by the way, derives from the Greek adamao, which means ‘I tame’ or ‘I subdue’. The adjective ‘adamas’ was used to describe the hardest substance known, and eventually became synonymous with Diamond. Diamonds are the very hardest natural substance. The only thing that can scratch a Diamond is another Diamond. The ancient Romans and Greeks believed that Diamonds were tears cried by the gods or splinters from falling stars, and Romans believed that Cupid’s arrows were tipped with Diamonds (perhaps the earliest association between Diamonds and romantic love). The first known use of a Diamond engagement ring a took place in 1477, when Archduke Maxmillian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a gold ring featuring an M spelled out in Diamonds. There are some wonderful quotes about diamonds. Mark Twain said: ‘Let us not be too particular; it is better to have old secondhand diamonds than none at all.’ Pliny believed: ‘Diamond is the most valuable, not only of precious stones, but of all things in this world.’ Marilyn Monroe sung: ‘Diamonds are a girl’s best friend’. Zsa Zsa Gabor added: ‘... and dogs are a man’s best friend. Now you know which sex has more sense.’

Emerald

Emeralds are at least 20 times rarer than Diamonds. They were probably the first ever stone to be mined, some 5,500 years ago. It is possible to count on the fingers of one hand the mining areas producing first-class rough. In many societies they were revered and worshipped. They feature in some of the greatest religious texts and literature, and are the basis of innumerable legends and myths. Most intriguing of all, they were one of the earliest commodities to be traded over vast distances. Emeralds from North Africa travelled by ancient routes to Europe, India and China. ‘Emeralds,’ wrote Sir John Mandeville in the fourteenth century, hinting at the importance of light in assessing colour, ‘are a very green stone, because to speak of its greenness, it makes the air green.’ Emeralds appear at their best in indirect sunlight or incandescent light (such as comes from light bulbs containing elements). The former offers an even, white light, whereas the latter has a lower colour temperature and provides a warmer, reddish light. If you are examining rough Emerald then holding it up to the light will help you assess the colour better. However, if you are examining a faceted Emerald the light source should be above the Emerald or coming from over your shoulder and should enter the stone through its crown (i.e. its top). Once the light has entered the stone, it will be reflected internally and then come back towards your eye. Slowly moving and tilting the stone will help you not only to determine its true colour, but also to assess its overall quality. The green in Emerald is caused by the presence of chromium and vanadium and is improved where there is little or no iron in its make-up. An absence of iron in some Emeralds, notably those from Colombia, causes them to emit red fluorescence in normal light. This red fluorescence is not visible to the naked eye, but gives the stones an extra vibrancy. The amount of internal reflection when viewing the stone from above is referred to as its brilliance.

Garnet

If you want to get a feel for the enduring power of the Garnet you could do worse than study the Bible, for the gemstone appears in several places including Noah’s Ark (where it helped him to navigate), Aaron’s Breastplate (representing one of the tribes of Israel) and around King Solomon’s neck (to provide protection and aid his decision making). There are superb examples in the Cairo Museum dating back to ancient Egyptian times and, from the same period, in the Metropolitan Museum (NY) and the British Museum (London). The Vatican, for Garnet was beloved by senior members of the Church throughout the Middle Ages, also has some beautiful Garnet pieces. It was – reputedly – Queen Victoria’s favourite gemstone and Mary Queen of Scots favoured it, too. The oldest Garnet jewellery, incidentally, has been dated to 3000BC. As with all precious and semi-precious gemstones, Garnet is believed to have all sorts of special powers. In particular, it is held to offer protection from poisons and to purify the liver; spark mental acuity and clarity, lighten the mood and bring peace and solace to the grieving. The stone is also associated with fidelity, loyalty and love.

Moonstone

According to Hindu mythology, Moonstone is made of solidified moonbeams. Many other cultures also associate this gem with moonlight, and it’s easy to see why. Its unearthly glow is actually caused by light scattering between microscopic layers of feldspar, a process that is called adularescence. The misty light seems to roll across the gem’s surface as you change the viewing angle. Great designers of the romantic Art Nouveau era, such as René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany, featured the pale gem in custom jewellery. Moonstone was also a favourite among artisans of the Arts and Crafts era in the last half of the nineteenth century, who used it in handcrafted silver items. During the 1960s ‘flower child’ (aka hippy) movement, Moonstone provided its wearers with the desired ethereal look, and designers of the 1990s New Age movement again turned to Moonstone’s natural beauty for inspiration.

Opal

Writers have compared Opals to volcanoes, galaxies, and fireworks. Admirers gave extraordinary Opals poetic names like Pandora, Light of the World, and Empress. In ancient Rome, this gem symbolizes love and hope. The Romans gave it a name – opalus – that means, literally, ‘precious stone’. Pliny observed, ‘Some opali carry such a play within them that they equal the deepest and richest colours of painters. Others...simulate the flaming fire of burning sulphur and even the bright blaze of burning oil.’ He marvelled that this kaleidoscopic gem encompassed the red of Ruby, the green of Emerald, the yellow of Topaz, the blue of Sapphire, and the purple of Amethyst. Many cultures have credited Opal with supernatural origins and powers. Arabic legends say it falls from the heavens in flashes of lightning. The ancient Greeks believed Opals gave their owners the gift of prophecy and guarded them from disease. Europeans have long considered the gem a symbol of hope, purity, and truth. Opal is the product of seasonal rains that drenched dry ground in regions such as Australia’s outback. The showers soaked deep into ancient underground rock, carrying dissolved silica (a compound of silicon and oxygen) downward. During dry periods, much of the water evaporated, leaving solid deposits of silica in the cracks and between the layers of underground sedimentary rock. The silica deposits formed opal. Play-of-colour occurs in precious Opal because it’s made up of sub-microscopic spheres stacked in a grid-like pattern—like layers of Ping-Pong balls in a box. As the lightwaves travel between the spheres, the waves diffract, or bend. As they bend, they break up into the colours of the rainbow, called spectral colours. Play-of-colour is the result. But perhaps this is more information than you actually need!

Ruby

Early cultures treasured Rubies for their similarity to the redness of the blood that flowed through their veins, and believed that rubies held the power of life. Interestingly, Rubies are mentioned four times in the Bible, in association with attributes like beauty and wisdom. In the ancient language of Sanskrit, Ruby is called ratnaraj, or ‘king of precious stones’. In the first century AD, the Roman scholar Pliny included Rubies in his Natural History, describing their hardness and density. Ancient Hindus believed that those who offered fine Rubies to the god Krishna were granted rebirth as emperors. People in India believed that Rubies enabled their owners to live in peace with their enemies. In Burma warriors possessed Rubies to make them invincible in battle... go on, you know you want them!

Sapphire

Sapphires are sometimes referred to in Sri Lanka and India as ‘the wisdom stone’ and gem healers believe that they release mental tension, cure depression and remove unwanted thoughts. This might be reason enough to keep a few about your person, but there are others: Sapphire is also supposed to restore balance within the body, align the physical, mental and spiritual planes and bring serenity and peace of mind. It is also known, incidentally, as a ‘stone of prosperity’, attracting gifts of all kinds and fulfilling dreams and desires.

Yellow Sapphires are heavily used in India for Vedic Astrology and this has been a major contributor to the rise in price of this gemstone. Many people have a cultural need that stipulates natural Sapphire use (specifically yellow ones) for good luck and good energy. Yellow Sapphire is the September birthstone, the gem of the fifth and 45th wedding anniversary, and the zodiac gem for Virgo. If you are interested in its healing qualities, we can design an appropriate setting.

Pink Sapphires come in a range of colours from very pale baby pink to vivid, intense magenta.  Pink Sapphire would, were it not for their pinkness, be classified as Rubies.

Padparadscha (Apricot) Sapphires -  Padparadscha – the name is a derived from a Sinhalese word for ‘aquatic lotus blossom’ (who knew?) – range from a rich but delicate pink through to an almost orangey, apricot. Intriguingly, they tend not to be evenly coloured, which can add, as opposed to detract, from their value.

Spinel

It wasn’t until 1783 that Mineralogist Jean Baptiste Louis Rome de Lisle (there is a name to be conjured with) realised that Spinel was a separate mineral to Ruby… prior to this, the two stones were considered to be one and the same. Indeed, the most famous Ruby in the world, the Black Prince’s Ruby in the British Imperial Crown is, in fact, a red Spinel. This stone has a wonderfully romantic history. It first appeared in the historical records of fourteenth century Spain, and was owned by a succession of Moorish and Spanish Kings before Edward, Prince of Wales – the Black Prince – received the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory. Another large spinel in the Crown Jewels, the ‘Timur Ruby’, weighs over 350 carats. It, too, has a chequered history. Several Persian inscriptions carved into the gem testify to its age.

Tanzanite

Tanzanite has a very romantic history. It was first discovered in 1967 and the only place it is found in the entire world is an area of about eight square miles in the Merelani Hills, near the base of Mount Kilimanjaro. From a mineralogical perspective it is actually a variety of zoisite, which comes in other colours including yellow, pink and violet. The blue colour of Tanzanite is caused, incidentally, by small amounts of vanadium within the zoisite mineral structure.  Tanzanite is extremely rare and also extremely beautiful and yet the market still  severely under values it.

Tourmaline

‘Tourmaline,’ a mineralogist would tell you, ‘is a crystalline boron silicate material compounded with elements such as aluminium, iron, magnesium, sodium, lithium or potassium.’  down through the ages some of the world’s most famous pieces of jewellery (The Anna Ioannovna Crown, part of the Russian Crown Jewels; the Lily Safra Brooch, which made $1.3m at auction in 2012; the Hamlin Necklace, now in the Harvard Museum etc. etc.) feature Tourmalines.   The beauty of Tourmaline is that it has it all: rich, pure colours; clarity (clean examples reflect and refract light so well that you could be forgiven for thinking they are coloured Diamonds) and hardness (about 7.5 on the Mohs scale). Indeed, if one wants to create a statement piece of jewellery, something really – well – WOW, then it is difficult to think of a better stone to choose.

Zircon

Here are 8 fascinating things you may not have known about Zircon. Zircon found in Australia – being 4.4bn years old – is actually the oldest mineral found on earth. Clear, colourless Zircon is known for its brilliance and flashes of multi-coloured light, called fire. Zircon’s properties are close enough to the properties of Diamond to account for centuries of confusion between the two gems (many famous pieces of Diamond jewellery should actually be referred to as Zircon jewellery). Zircon, like Diamond, occurs in an array of colours. Its varied palette of yellow, green, red, reddish brown, and blue hues makes it a favourite among collectors and jewellers. In the Middle Ages, this gem was thought to induce sound sleep, drive away evil spirits, and promote riches, honour, and wisdom. Gemologist George Kunz – Tiffany’s famed gem buyer – was a notable Zircon advocate. He once proposed the name ‘Starlite’ to promote the gem’s fiery nature. Sadly, the name never caught on. Zircon is not as hard as Diamond (7.5 on the Mohs scale) and can’t be set in the same way. Pliny mentions it (under a different name) in his Natural History as: ‘… a transparent stone with a refulgence like that of gold.